Island Peak Climbing Guide | Imja Tse Peak 2021/2022
The Island Peak climbing 2022 is a fascinating trip to peak of snow with stunning looks and surrounding fully clothed in white color standing proud like an island. The Island Peak is 6189 meters tall and officially known as Imja Tse which is a locale word for Island Peak and belongs to mountains of Everest region of Nepal. The Island Peak is an easy climbing peak in compare to other and it is the practice mountain for Everest Climbers during their training. The Island Peak lies in the mid-central of the higher Chukhung valley resembling an island standing proud in the sea of ice. The Island Peak is the most chosen climbing peak as this peak was training exercise for Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay who were the first climbers of this peak. The Island Peak is categorized as moderate and easy mountain based on authorized mountain standard and can be climbed by general climbers or novice climber with formal training on mountaineering expedition.
The Island Peak is an easy going travel destination with 40 minutes air-flight to Lukla airport of Everest region from Kathmandu city. The climbers from Lukla hike to Namche Bazar which generally take two days of easy walking. The climbers rest for some days at Namche Bazar for acclimatization until they are found fit as Altitude sickness or Acute Mountain Sickness is very important as people can die of suffocation due to problem in breathing. The trekking trail to Island Peak follows the same traditional Everest Base Camp Trail until Dingboche. The climbers from Dingboche follow the trekking trail towards Island Peak Base Camp. The most recommended season to climb Island Peak is March to May and September to November rest months have risk of bad weather during middle of the trip and climbing.
Where is Island Peak?
Imja Tse, better known as Island Peak, is a mountain in the Sagarmatha National Park of the Himalayas in eastern Nepal. The peak was named Island Peak in 1953 by members of the British Mount Everest Expedition because from Dingboche it appears like an island in an ocean of ice. Later the peak was renamed Imja Tse in 1983, but Island Peak Climbing remains the most commonly used name. The peak is in fact an extension of the ridge coming down from the southern end of Lhotse Shar closed to Chhukung .
The southwest summit of Imja Tse was first climbed in 1953 as part of a training exercise of a British expedition that went to the summit of Mount Everest. The team that climbed Imja Tse consisted of Tenzing Norgay, Charles Evans, Alfred Gregory, Charles Wylie and seven other Sherpas. The main summit was first climbed in 1956 by Hans-Rudolf von Gunten and two unknown Sherpas, members of a Swiss team that made the second ascent of Everest and the first ascent of Lhotse.
GOOD TO KNOW
Free cancellation up to 60 days prior departure, after which the deposit becomes non-refundable.
OTHER PRACTICAL INFORMATION
1. Urgent Notice for Domestic Flights (To/From Lukla)
The Government of Nepal has announced the halt of all flight operations from Kathmandu to Lukla, tentatively. Flights to Lukla have now been re-directed to Manthali airport in the district of Ramechhap which is 132 Km east of Kathmandu until further notice, to avoid the heavy traffic congestion at Kathmandu airport. The airport in Ramechhap physically sits in the Tamakoshi River Valley and is located 132 km from Kathmandu (an approximately 3-4 hours drive).
However, the early morning flight which departs at 6 am in the morning from Kathmandu will be available throughout this period, subject to early bookings at least 6 months to 1 year in advance prior to all Everest trips, which can be tedious in the peak season periods of spring and autumn. This too, is not guaranteed due to inclement weather patterns in these climatic changing times. All other flights after 6 am to Lukla will only be available from the airport in Ramechhap.
Other than this, optionally, helicopter arrangements can be made for 5 people on a sharing basis with an addition of USD 500 for a one way flight per person with an exclusive choice [only yours] to change your airplane flights to the helicopter. We will try to coordinate ways to form groups at the airport for this arrangement, but again, this too cannot be guaranteed, especially in peak season periods. The drive to Ramechhap and flight to Lukla is almost always guaranteed unless the flight is canceled due to bad weather conditions.
Travelers are requested to advise us on your preferred alternatives for flights to/from Lukla if/when possible delays or disruptions occur.
We would truly appreciate your patience to bear with us in the mentioned circumstances above. Climate change and our, should we say, blessed geographical conditions; which can be a monster when least expected, has become the relevant cause for this, making us victims of unseen circumstances beyond our control. Thank you so much for your kind understanding.
Recommended gear: 2022/23
Warm fleece jackets, jerseys, pullovers
Good boots, either light-weight trekking boots or light leather boots
Sleeping bags (preferably those rated -20 degree Celsius. You can rent them in Kathmandu)
A comfortable day pack, preferably with a waistband
Fleece wind-stopper jackets (optional)
Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell jackets
Down vests and/or jackets (optional)
Heavyweight gloves or mittens with a waterproof shell outer
Light balaclavas/warm fleece hats
Sunglasses with UV protection
Lightweight cotton long pants
Light, expedition-weight thermal bottoms
Fleece or woolen pants
Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell pants
Thin, lightweight inner socks
Thick, warm wool hiking socks
Hiking boots with spare laces
Camp shoes (sneakers and/or sandals)
Other necessary equipment:
Headlamps (e.g. Petzl Zoom) with spare bulbs and batteries
Small pad or combination lock-to-lock trek bag
Basic first aid kits (We also provide a comprehensive first aid medical kit and oxymeter to the head guide)
Large plastic bags to keep items dry inside your trekking bag
Day packs (approximately 2500 to 3000 cubic inches)
Water bottles (2 bottles recommended)
Small wash towels
COVID-19 SAFETY MEASURES
This trip incorporates the following COVID-19 measures: 2021
An average group size of maximum 8 people have been implemented on this tour to protect against COVID-19.
Wearing a mask, hand washing and sanitizing has been implemented per local government advice. Frequent disinfection of regularly touched surfaces is highly encouraged. Hygiene safety measures and distancing will be ensured in our accommodations and also during transportation.
Several COVID-19 distancing measures have been adopted on this package tour to keep travelers safe.
Island Peak Climbing day by day details itinerary
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu, drive to hotel, overnight stay in Kathmandu
Day 02: Free day, Welcome Dinner in the evening, overnight stay in Kathmandu
Day 03: Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2,800 m). Walk from Lukla to Phagding (2,600 m) (3 h ), overnight stay in teahouse/ lodge
Day 04: Walk from Phagding to Namche Bazaar (3,440 m) (4 h), overnight stay in teahouse/ lodge
Day 05: Acclimatisation day in Namche Bazaar (3,440 m), overnight stay in teahouse/ lodge
Day 06: Walk from Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3,780 m) (6 h), overnight stay in teahouse/ lodge
Day 07: Walk from Tengboche to Dingboche (5 h), overnight stay in teahouse/ lodge
Day 08: Walk from Dingboche to Island Basecamp (4,970 m) (4 h), overnight stay in camp
Day 09: Acclimatisation day Island Basecamp (4,970 m), overnight stay in camp
Day 10: Walk/Climbing from Island Basecampt to Island Highcamp (5,600 m) (4 h), overnight stay in camp
Day 11: Climbing from Island Highcamp to Island Peak (6,160 m) and back to Island Basecamp (4,970 m), overnight stay in camp
Day 12: Walk from Island Basecampt to Dingboche (4,343 m) (7 h), overnight stay in teahouse/ lodge
Day 13: Walk from Dingboche to Namche Bazzar (3,440 m) (6 h), overnight stay in teahouse/ lodge
Day 14: Walk from Namche Bazzar to Lukla (7 h), overnight stay in teahouse/ lodge
Day 15: Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu, Airport pick up, drive to hotel, overnight stay in Kathmandu
Day 16: Free day and shopping in Kathmandu, Welfare Dinner in the evening, overnight stay in Kathmandu
Day 17: Drive to Airport, flight back
- Airport / Hotel / Airport pick up & drop by private car or van. It is depend of the group.
- Two nights standard accommodation in 2/3 star category hotel in Kathmandu located tourist center, or up to you.
- Meals on full board (Breakfast, lunch and dinner) during the trekking
- Local fresh fruits like orange, apple, banana and grape etc.
- All accommodations during the trek.
- Mera peak trekking map.
- Both ways domestic flight from Kathmandu/ Lukla/ Kathmandu with airport tax.
- An experienced Government licensed holder Climbing guide and porter to carry your luggage during the trek.
- peak permit
- Food, drinks, accommodation, insurance, salary, equipments, transportation, local tax for Guide and porter
- Group medical supplies (first aid kit will be available).
- If you need we will provide you sleeping bag, down jackets, Duffle bag and, if necessary etc.
- All necessary Government paper works and national park entry permits and TIMS Card etc.
- Travel & Rescue arrangement.
- All government taxes and Vat.
- Meals your self Kathmandu (L+D).
- climbing equipemen
- Your Travel insurance.
- International airfare.
- Nepal entry visa ( You can obtain a visa easily upon your arrival at Nepal’s Airport in Kathmandu).
- All kind drinks (Alcoholic, hot and cold drinks)
- Personal shopping and laundry etc.
- Personal trekking Equipments.
- Tips for trekking staff and driver. (Tipping is expected, but it is not mandatory)
- If do any tour and sightseeing and other activities etc.
Running shoes: For travel and easy walking
Sport sandal: That can be worn with socks. (Teva, Chaco)
Lightweight hiking boots: Leather or fabric/leather with sturdy mid-sole and a Vibram sole.
Climbing boots: Plastic double boot. Aveolite liners for warmth recommended. (Vasque, Koflach, Scarpa)
Booties: Synthetic or down isulation. Any brand with thick foam soles.
Lightweight socks: Three to four pairs synthetic/wool blend (Bridgedale, Patagonia, Smartwool)
Mid-weight socks: Three to four pairs synthetic/wool blend (Bridgedale, Patagonia, Smartwool)
Lightweight long underwear top: (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
Mid-weight long underwear tops: Zip-T neck design is good. Light colors are better for tops because they are cooler when hiking in direct sunlight and just as warm as dark colors when worn underneath other layers. (Patagonia, North Face, Mountain Hardwear)
Lightweight long underwear bottoms: (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
Mid-weight underwear bottoms: Dark colors are preferable because they do not show dirt. (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
Briefs: Four pairs synthetic or cotton. Running shorts also work well for underwear. (Patagonia Capilene)
Short-sleeved shirts: Two synthetic; most nylon running shirts or athletic shirts work. (North Face, Patagonia, or any brand of PowerDry)
Jacket, synthetic or fleece: Synthetic jackets or pullovers are a great alternative to fleece because they are lighter and more compressible. Primaloft type fill or Polartec 100 or 200 fleece is recommended. (Wild Things Primaloft, Patagonia Puff Jacket)
Synthetic insulated pants: Primaloft or Polarguard 3D. Full side zips are recommended. Mountain Hardwear Chugach 3D pants are an example. An acceptable alternative are fleece pants Polartec 100 or 200, but they are bulky, heavier and less versatile.
Down insulated jacket: Expedition weight with a hood. (Marmot, North Face, Mountain Hardwear)
Waterproof breathable jacket & pants: Jacket must have a hood, pants must have full-length side zips. (Arc’Teryx, Marmot, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
Head & Hand Gear:
Liner gloves: Lightweight synthetic (Patagonia Capilene or any brand of PowerStretch)
Windstopper fleece gloves: (any brand of Windstopper fleece)
Gore-Tex Mittens w/ pile liners: Expedition weight liner for the first pair, second pair should have a light weight pile liner. (Outdoor Research)
Bandana: Two to three traditional cotton styles.
Sun hat: Any lightweight hat with a good brim or visor.
Wool or fleece hat: Any brand of warm hat that can go over ears.
Balaclava: At least one. Some people layer a very thin Calipee balaclava under a thicker fleece one.
Sunglasses #1: For high altitude. 1 pair of high quality 100%UV and 100%IR with a minimum of 80% light reduction, side shields such as those found on “glacier glasses” are not recommended, but size and shape of lens should offer maximum protection from bright light on snow.
Sunglasses #2: One pair high quality 100%UV and 100%IR, for lower elevations, also as a backup. It is important to have a spare pair of sunglasses.
Ski goggles: (Bolle, Smith)
Gaiters w/reinforced lowers: Short, simple gaiters are best, such as Outdoor Research’s Rocky Mountain Low Gaiters.
Headlamp w/spare bulb: (Petzl, Black Diamond)
Spare batteries: For headlamp and other gadgets you bring.
Ice axe: General mountaineering axe. 60 cm length is good for most people but it does depend on your height. Shaft should be straight, not curved. You will need a leash to attach your axe to you harness as well as a “wrist loop”. Bring a commercial leash designed for glacier travel or 6 ft of 9 / 16 inch webbing and your guide will help you construct one. (Grivel, Black Diamond)
Crampons: 12 point step-in (Grivel, Black Diamond)
Harness: Alpine style, you should not have to step through leg loops to put it on and off. It should be lightweight and fully adjustable. (Black Diamond)
Carabiners: Two large locking “pear” shaped, 6 regular mountaineering carabiners (avoid small gate specialized sport climbing ‘biners) (Black Diamond, Petzl, Clog)
Prussik cord: 20 feet of 6mm perlon which is also known as static accessory cord.(don’t cut it, bring in one piece)
Ascenders: One left or right hand orientation, does not matter (Petzl)
Rappel device: Figure 8, ATC or Trango Pyramid
Backpack: 5000 cubic inches (80 liters) or more, internal frame. Top opening mountaineer’s rucksack style is best. Avoid large zipper openings and excessive outside pockets. Larger packs are better than smaller, because they are easier to pack with cold hands and they distribute loads more effectively. (Gregory, North Face, Dana, Arc’Teryx)
Small day pack: Optional, should be small and simple, can double as stuff sack or organizer, useful for airline carry-on and for while touring in cities. (Black Diamond, Lowe)
Pack cover: Recommended. To protect your gear on rainy or snowy days (REI, MEC, Osprey, Gregory).
Sleeping bag: Expedition quality rated to at least minus 20F (-25C) ((Marmot, North Face)
Sleeping pad: Inflating, full-length (Therm-a-rest)
Foam pad: (Ridgerest)
Water bottles: Two 1-liter, leak-proof wide-mouth. (Nalgene, Lexan)
Lightweight steel thermal bottle: (Zojirushi, Nissan, Outdoor Research)
Pee bottle: One 1-liter, leak-proof wide-mouth (Nalgene, Lexan)
Pee funnel for women: (Freshette)
Pack towel: Small or medium size. Do not bring “terrycloth”, bandanas work in a pinch. (PackTowl)
Trekking poles: Make sure they are adjustable and can extend or shorten. (Leki, Black Diamond)
Swiss army knife: Remember not to leave in carry-on bags for any international or domestic flight.
Large mug, plastic bowl, Lexan fork and spoon: lightweight metal is ok. (MSR)
Medical & Personal:
Sunscreen: SPF 30 or higher, non-oily (Dermatone or Terrapin)
Lipscreen: SPF 30 or higher, any brand
Toiletry kit: Toothbrush, toothpaste, skin lotion, alcohol-based hand sanitizer, soap, comb/brush, shave kit, (bring travel size bottles to keep your kit small).
First-aid kit: Ibuprofen/Aspirin, assorted band-aids, moleskin, Neosporin-type suave, small gauze pad, roll of adhesive tape, tweezers, safety pins. Include any prescription travel meds that might be prescribed by your doctor (antibiotics, Diamox, sleep aids).
Zip-loc bags: Always useful
Ear plugs: Very useful in noisy lodges and tents. Available in most hardware stores.
Water purification tablets: Such as Potable Aqua brand iodine tablets. You will be given plenty of purified water during your trek and climb, but one bottle of backup purification tablets is always a good idea for your travels. They are especially useful in hotels on you way to Nepal. You should not drink untreated tap water anywhere in Asia and bottled water in some rare cases might not be available.
Expedition duffel bag: 8000+ cubic inches (130+ liter). Light colors are better for labeling with your name. Buy something well built with large, strong zippers. These bags are strapped to Yaks! (North Face, Patagonia “Black Hole”, Wild Things “Burro Bag”)
Travel bags: Extra duffel bags are useful for storing things in Kathmandu, in Namche and at Base Camp. Most soft sided “carry-on’ type bags work well. (Camp Trails “Packable”, Wild Things “carry-on”) You might also use extra large stuff sacks. Plan to fly to Nepal with two large duffels, and some smaller bags for organizing inside.
Nylon stuff sacks: Several different sizes, light colors preferable for labeling. (Outdoor Research)
Long sleeve shirt: Cotton, comfortable
Hiking shorts and/or skirt/sarong: 1 pair (any brand of Supplex short)
Lightweight pants: One pair (any brand Supplex or “stretch woven” pant)
City clothes for Kathmandu: Casual, one or two changes. Kathmandu is warm in the daytime, cool in the evenings. If you stay in Bangkok it is hot and tropical.
Small padlocks: for locking duffel bag(s)
Camera / video camera w/ extra batteries: We suggest plenty of non-rechargeable power, such as lithium batteries. Cold weather is hard on ni-cad and regular alkaline batteries and solar recharging is not always an option.
Film: Bring plenty, it is expensive in Nepal. Be sure to keep in your carry-on luggage, in clear zip- lock bags so that it can be inspected at airports. If you bring a digital camera, bring extra media storage cards. You will take lots of photos!
We INSIST that an appropriate insurance policy is taken out which covers travel in isolated and mountainous areas, and which also includes helicopter rescue.
We recommend that you consult a reputable travel agent or insurance specialist.
We recommend that all clients consult their doctor to discuss the health issues associated with their trek. We also recommend that clients bring their own personal first aid kit to supplement the comprehensive first aid kit carried by the Trek Leader
Please ensure that you allow at least 1 month to complete a course of vaccinations. Whilst your personal doctor will be the final authority,
We recommend the following
Immunoglobulin (for Hepatitis A)
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