Island Peak Climbing 2024

  • Duration 17
  • Destination Nepal
  • Trip Grade Moderate
  • Starts at Lukla
  • Ends at Lukla
  • Meals Tea Home
  • Accommodation
  • Max. Altitude 6189m
  • Activity Trekking,Hikking and climbing
  • Group Type Private
  • Group Size 2+
  • Best Season spring and Autumn
Highlights
  • Climb Imja/Island Peak, a stunning peak that looks like an island in a sea of ice
  • Experience friendly Sherpa cultural villages in the midst of towering mountains
  • Enjoy striking views of world’s popular mountain ranges including Mt Everest, Mt. Lhotse and Mt Nuptse

Island Peak Climbing 2024 Overview

Also known as ‘Imja Tse’, Island Peak is an impressive peak that is located in the Everest region in Nepal. Named “Island Peak” by Eric Shipton in the year 1953, this stunning wonder actually looks like a serene island surrounded by ice. It can be seen from Dingboche 4110m and is known to offer stunning views of Mt. Nuptse 7879m, Mt. Lhotse 8501m, Lhotse Middle Peak 8410 m and Lhotse Shar 8383m. To the east of Island Peak lies Mt. Makalu 8475m, Mt. Baruntse 7720m and Ama Dablam 6856m, rise majestically in the south himalayan range.

An Island Peak climbing adventure begins with a scenic  himalayan mountain flight to Lukla 2880m. Lukla is the gateway to the Khumbu valley and Everest region of Nepal. After landing Lukla, we gather our gears and begin our trek/walks gradually ascending the main Everest Base Camp trail which passes through Phakding 2660m, Namche Bazaar 3440m and Tyangboche 3880m to finally arrive at Dingboche 4410m.

After we continue our trek as we approach the Island Peak Base Camp 4970m. Before attempting the climb to the Island Peak summit, we will do some preparation, making sure that everybody is ready and fit for fight. Soon, we will tackle several technical climbing sections and head towards the summit. Our climb to the summit is rewarded with sensational views of the world’s greatest Everest ranges.

After a successful climb, we follow the same route to descend back to Lukla. Our experience of Island Peak ends with a scenic return flight from Lukla to Kathmandu 30/40 minutes flight.

You can also extend this adventure and combine it with a tour of the Everest Base Camp Trek. Please feel free to make an enquirer for a tailor-made program  by nepal guide info team .

Where is Island Peak?

Imja Tse, better known as Island Peak, is a mountain in the Sagarmatha National Park of the Himalayas in eastern Nepal. The peak was named Island Peak in 1953 by members of the British Mount Everest Expedition because from Dingboche it appears like an island in an ocean of ice. Later the peak was renamed Imja Tse in 1983, but Island Peak Climbing remains the most commonly used name. The peak is in fact an extension of the ridge coming down from the southern end of Lhotse Shar closed to Chhukung .

The southwest summit of Imja Tse was first climbed in 1953 as part of a training exercise of a British expedition that went to the summit of Mount Everest. The team that climbed Imja Tse consisted of Tenzing Norgay, Charles Evans, Alfred Gregory, Charles Wylie and seven other Sherpas. The main summit was first climbed in 1956 by Hans-Rudolf von Gunten and two unknown Sherpas, members of a Swiss team that made the second ascent of Everest and the first ascent of Lhotse.

 

GOOD TO KNOW CANCELLATION
Free cancellation up to 60 days prior departure, after which the deposit becomes non-refundable.

  • OTHER PRACTICAL INFORMATION
    NOTE:
    1. Urgent Notice for Domestic Flights (To/From Lukla)
    The Government of Nepal has announced the halt of all flight operations from Kathmandu to Lukla, tentatively. Flights to Lukla have now been re-directed to Manthali airport in the district of Ramechhap which is 132 Km east of Kathmandu until further notice, to avoid the heavy traffic congestion at Kathmandu airport. The airport in Ramechhap physically sits in the Tamakoshi River Valley and is located 132 km from Kathmandu (an approximately 3-4 hours drive).
    However, the early morning flight which departs at 6 am in the morning from Kathmandu will be available throughout this period, subject to early bookings at least 6 months to 1 year in advance prior to all Everest trips, which can be tedious in the peak season periods of spring and autumn. This too, is not guaranteed due to inclement weather patterns in these climatic changing times. All other flights after 6 am to Lukla will only be available from the airport in Ramechhap.
    Other than this, optionally, helicopter arrangements can be made for 5 people on a sharing basis with an addition of USD 500 for a one way flight per person with an exclusive choice [only yours] to change your airplane flights to the helicopter. We will try to coordinate ways to form groups at the airport for this arrangement, but again, this too cannot be guaranteed, especially in peak season periods. The drive to Ramechhap and flight to Lukla is almost always guaranteed unless the flight is canceled due to bad weather conditions.
    Travelers are requested to advise us on your preferred alternatives for flights to/from Lukla if/when possible delays or disruptions occur.
    We would truly appreciate your patience to bear with us in the mentioned circumstances above. Climate change and our, should we say, blessed geographical conditions; which can be a monster when least expected, has become the relevant cause for this, making us victims of unseen circumstances beyond our control. Thank you so much for your kind understanding.
    Recommended gear: 2024/25
  • Waterproof jackets
  • Warm fleece jackets, jerseys, pullovers
  • Good boots, either light-weight trekking boots or light leather boots
  • Sleeping bags (preferably those rated -20 degree Celsius. You can rent them in Kathmandu)
  • A comfortable day pack, preferably with a waistband
  • Fleece wind-stopper jackets (optional)
  • Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell jackets
  • Down vests and/or jackets (optional)
  • Lightweight gloves
  • Heavyweight gloves or mittens with a waterproof shell outer
  • Sun hats/scarfs
  • Light balaclavas/warm fleece hats
  • Sunglasses with UV protection
  • T-shirts
  • Underwear
  • Hiking shorts
  • Lightweight cotton long pants
  • Light, expedition-weight thermal bottoms
  • Fleece or woolen pants
  • Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell pants
  • Thin, lightweight inner socks
  • Thick, warm wool hiking socks
  • Hiking boots with spare laces
  • Camp shoes (sneakers and/or sandals)
  • Other necessary equipment:
  • Headlamps (e.g. Petzl Zoom) with spare bulbs and batteries
  • Small pad or combination lock-to-lock trek bag
  • Basic first aid kits (We also provide a comprehensive first aid medical kit and oxymeter to the head guide)
  • Large plastic bags to keep items dry inside your trekking bag
  • Day packs (approximately 2500 to 3000 cubic inches)
  • Water bottles (2 bottles recommended)
  • Toiletries
Day to Day Itinerary
Expand all +

We will pick you from your hotel and drive you to the airport in Kathmandu. A quick, 30-35-minute flight from Kathmandu will take you to Lukla (2,800m), the gateway to the Khumbu region and the starting point of this trek.

Travel through the Dudhkoshi River Valley, past various settlements such as Chheplung and Chaurikharka, before reaching Phakding. Enjoy great views of the Himalayas during the trek. It’s a leisurely day with a gradual descend of approximately 200 meters.

Get ready for a steep climb today. Follow the path of the thundering Dudh Kosi, cross numerous suspension bridges along the way. Trek past Monjo and Jorsalle villages until you reach Namche Bazaar (3,440m), a village in the mountains that is also the center of commerce in the Khumbu region.

Stay in Namche and allow your body to acclimatize to the altitude. You have the option to hike to the nearby areas. The trading and administrative centre of the Khumbu region, Namche is home to various government offices, banks, plenty of shops and eateries.

One of the most interesting optional hikes on our list is the one that takes you to Everest View Hotel 3880, from where you can enjoy great views of Mount Everest and other mountains in the Himalayas.

Start your day with a quick ascend followed by a flat trail to reach Kyanjuma. Travel downhill from there to reach Phunki Tenga. Cross the Dudh Koshi River to reach Tengboche Monastery, the most important monastery in the region. Depending upon the weather and other factors, you might end your day in  Tengboche 3,780m.

Make a quick descend to Dingboche (if you did not do it yesterday) before starting an uphill climb towards Pangboche 3900m. See Everest, Amadablam and Nuptse mountains along the way. Stop in Pangboche for tea before continuing to Somare for lunch. Travel through the Imja Valley and cross Lobuche Stream before ascending to Dingboche (4,410m).

Have breakfast in Dingboche before starting for Island Peak Base Camp. Do some pre-climb training and learn to use various climbing gear along with rules to follow. Climbing Island Peak is doable for those with adequate physical fitness, even if they do not have previous climbing experience.

Island Peak, also is known as Imja Tse, is the most popular peak among trekkers in Nepal. It was Eric Shipton’s team that coined the name Island Peak, in 1951 AD. It does not require any climbing experience to climb the peak and, for this reason, it is extremely popular among the beginners..

Acclimatization and necessary preparations like sorting the gear for the ascent. Overnight at tented camp.

Instead of climbing the peak, you’ll make a short ascent towards Island Peak High Camp, also known as we called Advance Camp. You’ll begin trekking and cross a few crevasses to arrive at the Advance camp. This is one of the rarest places to stay overnight. However, it offers the best chance to successfully summit the peak. After the short hike, you’ll stay put, keep yourself hydrated, and acclimatize. Overnight inside a tent

You’ll follow your guide and continue climbing along a ridgeline onto the snout of the summit. From the top, you can view the pristine sight of the nearby mountains and the valleys below. Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu peaks will be clearly visible in the distance. After taking your time enjoying the stunning views, you’ll continue trekking down towards Island Peak Base Camp where tent/ accommodations mange by  Nepal mountain guide team

Leaving Island Peak Base Camp, you’ll continue along Chukung glacier to arrive at Chukung village. The trail takes a drop and heads towards Dingboche stay over at night.

Today we  are heading dowen from Dingboche the path descends all the way to Pangboche. After lunch here, then walk towards the bridge, a small climb through the cool shade of the forest reaching to nice spot at Deboche, from here another 30 minutes of climb to Tengboche 3980m. After short rest here take an easy downhill walk to the bridge, from here a steep climb for a while and then reaching the level path towards the village of Shanasha, from here one can take an optional walk to Khumjung and Khunde village before Namche Bazaar. From this village another two hours of good walk leads to Namche Bazaar. Overnight at teahouse lodge.

On the last day of the Island peak and trek, you’ll continue downhill along the standard route and walk past the lush forested path to arrive at Monjo village 2880m. After exiting Sagarmatha National Park, you’ll continue downhill and arrive at Phakding 2660m. After a brief rest, you’ll continue towards Lukla 2880m. Arriving at Lukla marks the ends of the trek. You can celebrate the completion of the Island Peak Climb with your nepal mountain guide team members.

The flight time are schedule for morning normally 6:30 am to 12 am , because of the wind in the afternoon, sometime the flight time can be delayed due to bad weather and other reason beyond our control. After getting the boarding pass depending upon the flight time, make your way to the terminal for security check, this scenic flight from Lukla takes about 30 to 40 minutes to Kathmandu, a panoramic view of the snow capped peaks can be seen from window of the plane. Arriving at Kathmandu domestic terminal, nepalguideinfo team staff will receive and escort you back to the Hotel.

A free day in Kathmandu please let our staff  nepalguideinfo team know if you would like to go on another short tour in and around Kathmandu Valley or for scenic mountain flight.

Today as per your international flight time, keep your confirmed air ticket and your passport handy. Nepal Guide info team member or staff will take you to the airport for your final departure from Nepal.

Altitude Chart

Our team guides, porters and accompanying staff are locals with a broad knowledge about each and every location that we travel through.

Cost Includes
  • Airport pickup and drop-hotem nepal guide info team staff. All transport as per the itinerary, including Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu domestic airline tickets for clients and guide
  • Full board meals during the trek, including fresh, seasonal fruits as per the availability
  • Accommodation in tea houses, lodges & tented camping as per the itinerary
  • Everest National Park entrance fees. Island Peak climbing permits. All necessary paper works, government and local taxes for all members
  • Experienced, English-speaking  Nepal Mountain guides/ trekking guides. An assistant trekking guide for groups of over 8 peoples
  • Guide and porters meals , accommodations , salary  insurance  during trek
  • Down jacket, four seasonal sleeping bag and duffel bag Nepal Guide Info Logo (down jacket and sleeping bag are to be returned after trip completion)
  • A Medical Association-approved oximeter to measure your oxygen and pulse in high altitude & a first aid medical kit carried by the guide
  • High quality tents and kitchen utensils for camping during the Island peak climbing. Group climbing equipment (rope, harness, etc) during the climbing
  • Help with rescue and medical evacuation arrangements in the worse case scenario

 

 

Cost Excludes
  • International airfare
  • Nepal visa fees along with two passport-sized photos
  • Meals and accommodation in Kathmandu (this also applies in case of early returns and late departures)
  • Personal climbing equipment (boots, helmets, etc) & private climbing guides
  • Costs arising from natural calamities, mishaps or anything beyond our control (costs are non-refundable and non-transferable if you leave the trek midway voluntarily
  • Expenses that are personal in nature
  • Tips for guides and porters
  • Anything not mentioned in the ‘What’s Included’ section or the itinerary
  • Travel and medical insurance (with emergency evacuation options included)
Departure Dates
  • We have daily departures for this trip from beginning March to May and from frist -September to mid-December. You can type in the number of passengers to book a reservation and select a date that is convenient for you. Due to group size, we never cancel a trip once you’ve made a reservation. If you would rather join the group, we will add more travelers on the selected date. You can let us know once you make a reservation or earlier.
Useful Info

Footwear:

  • Running shoes: For travel and easy walking
  • Sport sandal: That can be worn with socks. (Teva, Chaco)
  • Lightweight hiking boots: Leather or fabric/leather with sturdy mid-sole and a Vibram sole.
  • Climbing boots: Plastic double boot. Aveolite liners for warmth recommended. (Vasque, Koflach, Scarpa)
  • Booties: Synthetic or down isulation. Any brand with thick foam soles.
  • Lightweight socks: Three to four pairs synthetic/wool blend (Bridgedale, Patagonia, Smartwool)
  • Mid-weight socks: Three to four  pairs synthetic/wool blend (Bridgedale, Patagonia, Smartwool)

Clothing:

  • Lightweight long underwear top: (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
  • Mid-weight long underwear tops: Zip-T neck design is good. Light colors are better for tops because they are cooler when hiking in direct sunlight and just as warm as dark colors when worn underneath other layers. (Patagonia, North Face, Mountain Hardwear)
  • Lightweight long underwear bottoms: (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
  • Mid-weight underwear bottoms: Dark colors are preferable because they do not show dirt. (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
  • Briefs: Four pairs synthetic or cotton.  Running shorts also work well for underwear. (Patagonia Capilene)
  • Short-sleeved shirts: Two synthetic; most nylon running shirts or athletic shirts work.  (North Face, Patagonia, or any brand of PowerDry)
  • Jacket, synthetic or fleece: Synthetic jackets or pullovers are a great alternative to fleece because they are lighter and more compressible. Primaloft type fill or Polartec 100 or 200 fleece is recommended. (Wild Things Primaloft, Patagonia Puff Jacket)
  • Synthetic insulated pants: Primaloft or Polarguard 3D. Full side zips are recommended. Mountain Hardwear Chugach 3D pants are an example. An acceptable alternative are fleece pants Polartec 100 or 200, but they are bulky, heavier and less versatile.
  • Down insulated jacket: Expedition weight with a hood. (Marmot, North Face, Mountain Hardwear)
  • Waterproof breathable jacket & pants: Jacket must have a hood, pants must have full-length side zips. (Arc’Teryx, Marmot, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
  • Head & Hand Gear:
  • Liner gloves: Lightweight synthetic (Patagonia Capilene or any brand of PowerStretch)
  • Windstopper fleece gloves: (any brand of Windstopper fleece)
  • Gore-Tex Mittens w/ pile liners: Expedition weight liner for the first pair, second pair should have a light weight pile liner. (Outdoor Research)
  • Bandana: Two to three traditional cotton styles.
  • Sun hat: Any lightweight hat with a good brim or visor.
  • Wool or fleece hat: Any brand of warm hat that can go over ears.
  • Balaclava: At least one. Some people layer a very thin Calipee balaclava under a thicker fleece one.

Accessories:

  • Sunglasses #1: For high altitude. 1 pair of high quality 100%UV and 100%IR with a minimum of 80% light reduction, side shields such as those found on “glacier glasses” are not recommended, but size and shape of lens should offer maximum protection from bright light on snow.
  • Sunglasses #2: One pair high quality 100%UV and 100%IR, for lower elevations, also as a backup. It is important to have a spare pair of sunglasses.
  • Ski goggles: (Bolle, Smith)
  • Gaiters w/reinforced lowers: Short, simple gaiters are best, such as Outdoor Research’s Rocky Mountain Low Gaiters.
  • Headlamp w/spare bulb: (Petzl, Black Diamond)
  • Spare batteries: For headlamp and other gadgets you bring.

Climbing Equipment:

  • Ice axe: General mountaineering axe.  60 cm length is good for most people but it does depend on your height.  Shaft should be straight, not curved.  You will need a leash to attach your axe to you harness as well as a “wrist loop”.    Bring a commercial leash designed for glacier travel or 6 ft of 9 / 16 inch webbing and your guide will help you construct one. (Grivel, Black Diamond)
  • Crampons: 12 point step-in (Grivel, Black Diamond)
  • Harness: Alpine style, you should not have to step through leg loops to put it on and off. It should be lightweight and fully adjustable. (Black Diamond)
  • Carabiners: Two large locking “pear” shaped, 6 regular mountaineering carabiners (avoid small gate specialized sport climbing ‘biners) (Black Diamond, Petzl, Clog)
  • Prussik cord: 20 feet of 6mm perlon which is also known as static accessory cord.(don’t cut it, bring in one piece)
  • Ascenders: One left or right hand orientation, does not matter (Petzl)
  • Rappel device: Figure 8, ATC or Trango Pyramid

Camping Gear:

  • Backpack: 5000 cubic inches (80 liters) or more, internal frame. Top opening mountaineer’s rucksack style is best. Avoid large zipper openings and excessive outside pockets. Larger packs are better than smaller, because they are easier to pack with cold hands and they distribute loads more effectively. (Gregory, North Face, Dana, Arc’Teryx)
  • Small day pack: Optional, should be small and simple, can double as stuff sack or organizer, useful for airline carry-on and for while touring in cities. (Black Diamond, Lowe)
  • Pack cover: Recommended. To protect your gear on rainy or snowy days (REI, MEC, Osprey, Gregory).
  • Sleeping bag: Expedition quality rated to at least minus 20F (-25C) ((Marmot, North Face)
  • Sleeping pad: Inflating, full-length (Therm-a-rest)
  • Foam pad: (Ridgerest)

Water bottles: Two 1-liter, leak-proof wide-mouth. (Nalgene, Lexan)

Lightweight steel thermal bottle: (Zojirushi, Nissan, Outdoor Research)

  • Pee bottle: One 1-liter, leak-proof wide-mouth (Nalgene, Lexan)
  • Pee funnel for women: (Freshette)
  • Pack towel: Small or medium size. Do not bring “terrycloth”, bandanas work in a pinch. (PackTowl)
  • Trekking poles: Make sure they are adjustable and can extend or shorten. (Leki, Black Diamond)
  • Swiss army knife: Remember not to leave in carry-on bags for any international or domestic flight.
  • Large mug, plastic bowl, Lexan fork and spoon: lightweight metal is ok. (MSR)

Medical & Personal:

Sunscreen: SPF 30 or higher, non-oily (Dermatone or Terrapin)

  • Lipscreen: SPF 30 or higher, any brand
  • Toiletry kit: Toothbrush, toothpaste, skin lotion, alcohol-based hand sanitizer, soap, comb/brush, shave kit, (bring travel size bottles to keep your kit small).
  • First-aid kit: Ibuprofen/Aspirin, assorted band-aids, moleskin, Neosporin-type suave, small gauze pad, roll of adhesive tape, tweezers, safety pins. Include any prescription travel meds that might be prescribed by your doctor (antibiotics, Diamox, sleep aids).
  • Zip-loc bags: Always useful
  • Baby wipes
  • Ear plugs: Very useful in noisy lodges and tents. Available in most hardware stores.
  • Water purification tablets: Such as Potable Aqua brand iodine tablets. You will be given plenty of purified water during your trek and climb, but one bottle of backup purification tablets is always a good idea for your travels. They are especially useful in hotels on you way to Nepal. You should not drink untreated tap water anywhere in Asia and bottled water in some rare cases might not be available.

Travel Items:

Expedition duffel bag: 8000+ cubic inches (130+ liter).  Light colors are better for labeling with your name. Buy something well built with large, strong zippers.  These bags are strapped to Yaks! (North Face, Patagonia “Black Hole”, Wild Things “Burro Bag”)

  • Travel bags: Extra duffel bags are useful for storing things in Kathmandu, in Namche and at Base Camp.  Most soft sided “carry-on’ type bags work well.  (Camp Trails “Packable”, Wild Things “carry-on”)  You might also use extra large stuff sacks. Plan to fly to Nepal with two large duffels, and some smaller bags for organizing inside.
  • Nylon stuff sacks: Several different sizes, light colors preferable for labeling. (Outdoor Research)
  • Long sleeve shirt: Cotton, comfortable
  • Hiking shorts and/or skirt/sarong: 1 pair (any brand of Supplex short)
  • Lightweight pants: One pair (any brand Supplex or “stretch woven” pant)
  • City clothes for Kathmandu: Casual, one or two changes. Kathmandu is warm in the daytime, cool in the evenings.  If you stay in Bangkok it is hot and tropical.
  • Passport belt/pouch
  • Small padlocks: for locking duffel bag(s)
  • Book(s)
  • Journal
  • Camera / video camera w/ extra batteries: We suggest plenty of non-rechargeable power, such as lithium batteries. Cold weather is hard on ni-cad and regular alkaline batteries and solar recharging is not always an option.
  • Film: Bring plenty, it is expensive in Nepal. Be sure to keep in your carry-on luggage, in clear zip- lock bags so that it can be inspected at airports.  If you bring a digital camera, bring extra media storage cards. You will take lots of photos!
FAQs
  • Island Peak stands at an elevation of 6,189 meters (20,305 feet) above sea level.

  • While prior climbing experience is not mandatory, it is highly recommended. Island Peak is considered a challenging climb and requires a good level of physical fitness and some technical climbing skills.

  • The best time to climb Island Peak is during the pre-monsoon (spring) season, from March to May, and the post-monsoon (autumn) season, from September to November. During these times, the weather is generally stable, and the skies are clear, providing excellent climbing conditions.

  • Yes, you need a climbing permit issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) to climb Island Peak. You also need to be accompanied by a licensed climbing guide.

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